Eli's World

Grass:  Not So Bad

I'm not going anywhere. The pace of these posts may slow down a bit now we are home and myriad projects and jobs and demands suck up my time. But I'll try to keep to a minimum of two of these a week for the foreseeable future.

I'm going to take a stab at describing Eli's personality. Many people have expressed surprise and even skepticism at all the pictures and descriptions of him as a happy, well-adjusted, dynamic kid with seemingly few issues resulting from his time in an institution. The truth is that while he really is quite happy to be with us, and tremendously affectionate and curious and mischievous and etc., of course he has typical two-year-old tantrums and gets angry and frustrated with us as well. I don't dwell on those things too much on this site, maybe because in the back of my mind I'm always wondering what he would think of these posts if he were able to read them. Which, in all likelihood, he will someday be. I'm not trying to sugarcoat the adoption experience, but I'm also sensitive to Eli's basic right to privacy, and to make his own decisions about what to share and what not to share.

The Good Land

There Will Be Cucumbers

Those of you who know us, might once or twice (or a hundred times) have heard us extol the virtues of Vermont. We try to keep it somewhat low-key, because we can imagine how terribly depressing it must be for all of you that God loves Vermont so much more than He loves wherever it is that you live. But sometimes it's difficult to hold back.


We are home now, the mountains are still green, the air is fresh and in the upper 70's, our garden is overflowing, and our beautiful neighbors have left things like coq au vin, anitpasto platters and fresh apple crisp waiting for us in our kitchen. Our cat still loves us.

And Eli likes it here very, very much.  Although the cat kind of freaks him out. 

Forever Friday

Yesterday lasted 36 hours.  Apparently even that wasn't enough to get us home. 

We left Hong Kong a bit late, but still comfortably within target range, perhaps 40 minutes late.  The flight was 12 hours, 10 minutes.  Suffice it to say that Eli does not understand airplanes.  He doesn't like books or movies, and he does like running around and getting into things and throwing them around.  He slept for all of 3 hours on the flight, so Allison and I had our hands full. 

We landed in San Francisco 2 hours before we left Hong Kong.  This time warp was about to become the least strange thing about our day.

Things I Love About China

Specifically, Guangzhou.

1.  Riverboat Cruise Clowns.  I mean, who doesn't love them?

2.  Secret Sites.  Guangzhou is literally the best kept secret in China travel.  It's got everything, and no one knows it.  From millenia-old unearthed tombs to caves to more parks per capita than just about any Chinese city, to waterparks to Buddhist temples to old growth banyan groves to mountains, to Sun Yat-sen memorials, to folk art museums to paintball battlegrounds.  It also has the best food in all of China, hands down.  It even looks eerily like Vermont if you manage to get anywhere outside the city.  You can have Beijing and Shanghai, give me Guangzhou any day.    

3.  Shamian Island.  Hey, I don't like living there, but it's great place to spend a few hours knocking around.

All Right, All Right

My post yesterday generated some responses, both in the comments and outside of them. Sandra pointed out, rightly, that others have different experiences in China than we've had. Allison pointed out that my issues derive more from the adoption process than from the particular location we're in -- that is to say, wherever we might have planted ourselves in Guangzhou in August, we'd still have to deal with a busy slate of bureaucratic appointments, a new two-year-old, and blazing heat and humidity. None of those are particularly conducive to a cultural travel bonanza.

Someone else pointed out that maybe I should just get over myself already and tone down the whining about how my trip to China isn't perfect, since a lot of readers won't ever come here at all. Fair point.

I can't change the fact that I've been to China a lot and that I'm not over fond of this particular speck-part of it. That's just the way it is, and hey, after all, you're here reading my blog, not the other way round, so the author gets some perks. Indulging himself is one of them.

But in deference to the brighter side of things, and in deference especially to my wife, who really wishes I would just smile a lot more and cut everything some slack, tomorrow's post will be all sweetness and light, raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens, laughter and pixie dust and long walks on the beach. Gosh, it'll be grand.

Tune in then for the surefire hit All My Favorite Things About China (The Extended "This Trip Especially" Remix). I guarantee you'll be walking lighter, tapping your toes, turning your frown upside-down, and applying some fresh elbow grease to life's little snags.

Really. For realz.

By the way, we leave for Hong Kong tomorrow too. Two more days and we'll be home in Vermont! Much as I truly do love China, I love Vermont even more. Can't wait to be back. We had our "swearing in" ceremony at the U.S. Consulate today with dozens of other new adoptive families, a kind of pro forma affair where they tell you that you'll get your child's visa tomorrow and you have to raise your right hand and swear that everything you've ever said to anybody was the truth, and everyone applauds because they're so anxious to get out of here and go home.

Good times.

Fortress of Solitude

Every adoption completed in China evenutally comes through Guangzhou. The U.S. Consulate here is responsible for overseeing visa and naturalization paperwork for adotpions from China, so all adoptive families must petition the Consulate, in person, for the magic visa that allows them to take their children home and make them U.S. citizens.

The vast majority of U.S. parents who come to Guangzhou to adopt stay at the White Swan Hotel on Shamian Island. While the island is a tourist destination in its own right, and the hotel is a well-known 5-star establishment, it's no understatement to say that a large fraction of the revenue of both depends on international adoptions, and specifically American adoptions. The place has been engineered to cater to the needs of new, nervous, harried U.S. parents; to provide them a safe haven, a Western oasis in the chaos of China that they need not leave and that will provide for their every need. All over the island, the buildings themselves date back to a colonial period when the Americans, British and French sought mastery over Chinese commerce -- so even architecturally speaking, the island is more Europe than China. Automobile traffic is limited, and the broad pedestrian walkways are beautifully crafted with cobblestones and flower beds and bronze statuary. The restaurants are high quality and all have English-speaking staff and high chairs and children-sized utensils. The stores sell diapers and formula and baby food and darling outfits for small people. The play room at the White Swan alone is worth its weight in gold -- you wouldn't find anything else like it at any other hotel in Guangzhou.

In short, Shamian and the White Swan provide a buffer against the stresses of travel in China, a kind of blessed home retreat you can rely on for Western creature comforts, and that you will only have to depart sporadically and then always in the company of an English-speaking guide and a personal driver, in air-conditioned style.

I kind of hate it.

Pix & Pricks

The now obligatory "happy with food" shot of the day

No, that's not the name of my new adult bookstore. Sickos.

Yesterday was Eli's medical exam and vaccinations. We spent a surreal hour and a half or so at a hot, cafeteria-style medical clinic positively overrun by adoptive families and their children. We entered the clininc and promptly sat down on some metal benches to wait for our guide to check us in. Ten minutes or so later, we got up and moved 15 feet into the waiting room proper, a big square joint with chairs around the outside edges and a Pixar movie playing on a big flat-screen plasma television. With no sound. And Chinese subtitles. I should note that this is a Chinese medical clinic, with all Chinese staff, nurses, and doctors. We got there early, first thing in the morning, so were moving pretty quickly. We had to hit four stations, and have Eli signed off at each one of them.